13. Perugia vs Siena
There are so many wonderful cities to explore in Italy that you should decide what you really want. The great cities like Rome, Florence, and Venice have a lot to offer, but they also "offer" lots of tourists, which means higher prices for accommodation and restaurants, and English-speaking waiters! Milan, I am told, is very expensive because it is the centre of haute couture. Or you may prefer a little town, where the populace are Italian speaking, but with little else to offer besides the town square. Well, that is not as bad as it may seem. If you are close to the tourist areas you can always make excursions. Besides, a month in a small Tuscan town in summer might be just what the doctor ordered! I think it really depends on how hospitable are the townspeople. With this in mind, I will make a brief comparison of two small cities, Siena and Perugia.
Siena is only two hours away from Florence and, historically, the loser in their historical rivalry. If you mention Siena to anyone, the first response is that it is a beautiful city. Indeed it is a small and beautiful city. As with all small towns and cities in any country, there are the "locals" and then there are the "outsiders". Apparently, even in Italy, the Sienese are known for their insularity. While visiting another town I struck up a conversation with an Italian. When I told him that Siena was beautiful but I found the people standoffish, he went into a tirade against them. As he explained to me, they only have time for themselves and that although he lived only a short distance away from Siena , when he attended university there he was always treated as an outsider!
I can understand, if not appreciate, this Sienese insularity. Historically, they are denizens of a city state on a hill often struggling for their independence, and their social fabric is closely knit by their contradas. These function like a cross between a social club and a co-operative, and serve to guide if not control the behaviour of the youth. As one instructor told me, Siena does not need discos because the contradas hold their own dances. Being so self contained, it is no wonder that they appear disinterested if not cold to the large number of outsiders, comprising tourists and students.
Before I describe my experiences at Siena , I do want to make clear that I am writing about Siena in May 2005, and lots could have happened in a year. Who knows, the drug problem could even have taken a grip in Siena as it has in Perugia. Also, during my stay I lived with a family in the outskirts, and so could not frequent the nightspots because of the bus schedule or lack of! On the other hand, there seemed to be a very limited number of bars. And let me also point out that in my dealings I found the clerks, taxi drivers – yes taxi drivers too --and waiters all very honest. In this respect Siena is unlike Florence where you thank the saints if you don’t get ripped-off by a driver.
The Sienese seem to have a total lack of concern for traffic and other pedestrians. Often when I was walking along the narrow street I would encounter a Sienese or a group of them, and if I didn’t get out of the way they would have walked right through me! In North America, if a young person did the same that would be an insult and I shudder to think what would break out. But the Sienese behave in the same way with cars. Often I've seen them just walk along while the car patiently creeps behind, and unlike Perugia, no horn plays! But I think the best example of this indifference to others occurred on a rainy day. We had been standing in the Campo watching the draw for the Palio when the heavens opened up. As I was getting totally soaked I followed the others and made a dash for shelter. There were people standing in the entrance of a shop and there was room for me. However, no one stepped aside to make room for me. I was literally standing out in the rain until I decided on prudence over politeness and pushed my way in. This indifference perplexes me. It seems as if the Sienese populace and the "outlanders" are like oil and water – they may interface but they don’t mix. As a stranger one feels tolerated but not welcomed. As you can guess, outside of my host family, I did not meet a single Sienese with whom I could have a conversation.
How unlike Perugia! It is much more cosmopolitan and consequently the people are more "open". True, it is a larger city with thousands of foreign students and tourists. I had several impromptu chats – one with a gentleman who recognised that I was using an old film Canon camera and so we had a discussion on the merits of the camera. On another occasions, I was watching a young man repair an old view camera, and his boss, a gentleman in his 70s started speaking to me and invited me into his apartment where we continued our conversation. On still another occasion I met a highly intelligent young lady and we had a discussion on literature. More of these and I am sure my Italian would have improved!
Perugia is also a gold mine, and you can find everything from Jazz to coffee bars where the local intellectuals meet. I just know that if I had stayed longer, or if I had spent more time in the cafes and bars I would have met more Italians – a feeling I failed to get about Siena . Despite my having fallen twice on the cobblestoned lanes, I would not hesitate to return to Perugia to study, but not at the university – that was not a good experience.
By the way, each time I fell a Perugian rushed to my assistance. The first time I fell in front of a café, and the barman helped me up and sat me down. Next he brought me ice. The second time I slipped in the rain and a young fellow came to my rescue. In Siena they probably would have walked over me!
Siena is only two hours away from Florence and, historically, the loser in their historical rivalry. If you mention Siena to anyone, the first response is that it is a beautiful city. Indeed it is a small and beautiful city. As with all small towns and cities in any country, there are the "locals" and then there are the "outsiders". Apparently, even in Italy, the Sienese are known for their insularity. While visiting another town I struck up a conversation with an Italian. When I told him that Siena was beautiful but I found the people standoffish, he went into a tirade against them. As he explained to me, they only have time for themselves and that although he lived only a short distance away from Siena , when he attended university there he was always treated as an outsider!
I can understand, if not appreciate, this Sienese insularity. Historically, they are denizens of a city state on a hill often struggling for their independence, and their social fabric is closely knit by their contradas. These function like a cross between a social club and a co-operative, and serve to guide if not control the behaviour of the youth. As one instructor told me, Siena does not need discos because the contradas hold their own dances. Being so self contained, it is no wonder that they appear disinterested if not cold to the large number of outsiders, comprising tourists and students.
Before I describe my experiences at Siena , I do want to make clear that I am writing about Siena in May 2005, and lots could have happened in a year. Who knows, the drug problem could even have taken a grip in Siena as it has in Perugia. Also, during my stay I lived with a family in the outskirts, and so could not frequent the nightspots because of the bus schedule or lack of! On the other hand, there seemed to be a very limited number of bars. And let me also point out that in my dealings I found the clerks, taxi drivers – yes taxi drivers too --and waiters all very honest. In this respect Siena is unlike Florence where you thank the saints if you don’t get ripped-off by a driver.
The Sienese seem to have a total lack of concern for traffic and other pedestrians. Often when I was walking along the narrow street I would encounter a Sienese or a group of them, and if I didn’t get out of the way they would have walked right through me! In North America, if a young person did the same that would be an insult and I shudder to think what would break out. But the Sienese behave in the same way with cars. Often I've seen them just walk along while the car patiently creeps behind, and unlike Perugia, no horn plays! But I think the best example of this indifference to others occurred on a rainy day. We had been standing in the Campo watching the draw for the Palio when the heavens opened up. As I was getting totally soaked I followed the others and made a dash for shelter. There were people standing in the entrance of a shop and there was room for me. However, no one stepped aside to make room for me. I was literally standing out in the rain until I decided on prudence over politeness and pushed my way in. This indifference perplexes me. It seems as if the Sienese populace and the "outlanders" are like oil and water – they may interface but they don’t mix. As a stranger one feels tolerated but not welcomed. As you can guess, outside of my host family, I did not meet a single Sienese with whom I could have a conversation.
How unlike Perugia! It is much more cosmopolitan and consequently the people are more "open". True, it is a larger city with thousands of foreign students and tourists. I had several impromptu chats – one with a gentleman who recognised that I was using an old film Canon camera and so we had a discussion on the merits of the camera. On another occasions, I was watching a young man repair an old view camera, and his boss, a gentleman in his 70s started speaking to me and invited me into his apartment where we continued our conversation. On still another occasion I met a highly intelligent young lady and we had a discussion on literature. More of these and I am sure my Italian would have improved!
Perugia is also a gold mine, and you can find everything from Jazz to coffee bars where the local intellectuals meet. I just know that if I had stayed longer, or if I had spent more time in the cafes and bars I would have met more Italians – a feeling I failed to get about Siena . Despite my having fallen twice on the cobblestoned lanes, I would not hesitate to return to Perugia to study, but not at the university – that was not a good experience.
By the way, each time I fell a Perugian rushed to my assistance. The first time I fell in front of a café, and the barman helped me up and sat me down. Next he brought me ice. The second time I slipped in the rain and a young fellow came to my rescue. In Siena they probably would have walked over me!
posted by Toby1939 at 10:59 PM
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